The Electronics Universe

You are welcome

You can use either.
I get my caps from Just Radio

That sounds like the RF final amplifier transistor is out.
This is a RF module. Sometimes the ceramic substrate cracks.  You can remove it, take the plastic case off and see if you can see a crack.

Have a look at this page for an example.
https://www.rftechnology.com.au/downloads/EB0405.pdf

Started the power supply.

First thing I did was build the tube rectified circuit on the breadboard. We ended up with about 190 volts on the B+.
Now we know the transformer is 250 volts but this is what happens when you use tube rectification.

EDIT TO ADD PICTURES


I then built up a solid state  circuit.  But this time we get 390 volts on the B+ and a tap for the preamp at 190 volts.
Remember this is unloaded. No load on the supply.

EDIT TO ADD PICTURES

In this thread we will be documenting "The Pine Board Project".
Ours will be in a metal chassis.

See link below to Bob Heil's website on this for more videos and documentation.
https://heilhamradio.com/amateur-radio-post/the-pine-board-project/

All credit for this goes to Bob Heil and his team on building this project.

Dave,
I have neve found any of those. I made mine.

First welcome to the site.

This sounds like a known issue with the radio in question.
Have a good look at the PLL board.  It is the smaller board sitting in the can that is attached to the chassis on one side.
You will need to unplug this board and remove it from the mount. Look closely for weak solder joints. They are there.
Also look for Sony Bond glue. This is a beige color glue that was used to hold parts down.  It has probably turned dark brown by now.
This stuff is very conductive and causes shorts.

I understand what you said about the capacitors.  But to be really sure you have to remove them and see if they leaked onto the board.

You can get the service manual here:
http://www.cbradio.nl/realistic/Service_Manual_Realistic_HTX100_Homer_ENG.pdf

Let us know what you find.

Buddy